Hello Everyone. Greetings from La Crosse, the biggest town on Wisconsin’s stretch of The Great River Road. It’s definitely cooled down a bit this week and the first hints of fall are starting to show up on the edges of the leaves and in the products in the stores. Pumpkins are popping up on farm stands and apple orchards are starting to open. I will hold on to summer as long as I can, but I’m really looking forward to the fall as well. It’s been an excellent and busy week out here on the road, taking me from the middle of the state out across the Driftless Region and finally up along the Mississippi River to La Crosse. I’ve explored some of Wisconsin’s early history and even learned one story about the state’s badger connection. It’s been such a busy week so I better get right to it.
When I left you last week I was on my way out to Devil’s Lake State Park, which was a beautiful lake and a great little park. I enjoyed going for a swim and found a place to recycle my recyclables. I really love State Parks, and Wisconsin’s have been pretty good so far. I spent the night in Baraboo and got up early Thursday morning and went for a delicious breakfast at the Broadway Diner. Then I enjoyed a little walk around Baraboo’s downtown area. As I mentioned last week, Baraboo was the birthplace of the Ringling Brothers Circus and its home for many years. I was happy to see the town has embraced that part of its history without taking it to the weird extreme some towns would have. The Ringlings’ father was a harness maker in Baraboo and he and his family lived above the harness shop downtown. He and his wife had ten children – eight of whom would live to adulthood. Five of those children would found the Ringling Brothers Circus in 1894. They would eventually bring their other two brothers on board and go on to buy Barnum and Bailey’s Circus in 1907 and build one of the largest entertainment dynasties America would ever know. Baraboo’s opulent downtown theater is named for Al Ringling and there are subtle and not-so-subtle nods to the famous family all over town. The centerpiece of Baraboo’s Ringling connecting is Circus World, a museum located on what was once the circus’ winter quarters. I love the thought of elephants being walked through downtown Baraboo streets to get some exercise (and saw the pictures to prove it). This is a good circus museum which I had been to before and houses the largest collection of old circus wagons in the world. They do have live performances throughout the summer, but I arrived just days too late to catch one. It was still fun and when I finished there I headed on south to Dodge State Park. Named for the first governor of Wisconsin, this is a pleasant state park surrounding two little lakes. I went on a nice 4 mile hike through the park and was really taken aback by the incredible fields of goldenrod that were there. It was nice to get out on the trail for a while and I enjoyed my hike and then headed down to Dodgeville for the night.
Friday morning I got up and went back north to check out the infamous House on the Rock. I had heard of the House on the Rock for years, and although I never really understood what was so appealing about it from the descriptions I read (especially at the steep admission cost of $30), I decided to give it a look while I was there. I realized within minutes of my arrival that this place defied description and was a truly magical place. The actual house on the rock was built by Alex Jordan Jr. beginning in 1945. He designed and built the house himself using local materials atop a huge rock formation called Deer Shelter Rock. Working around the natural rock formations and trees, Jordan built room after room in incredibly eclectic fashion with Japanese influences and windows looking down at the forest below. After a write-up in a local Madison paper, people started dropping by to try and get a look at this House on the Rock, and after enough people came, Jordan decided to start charging them admission. He brought in $15 that day, $5,000 that year and $34,000 the next. From there, he was off and running, collecting things, building things and constructing new buildings to house it all. It’s resulted in a world class collection of kitsch, but one displayed in such a brilliant and whimsical way that it’s an immersive experience I can only liken to Alice wandering into Wonderland. The lights and sounds and music are all overwhelmingly fun and so over-the-top that I can’t imagine anyone not enjoying themselves there. The centerpiece is definitely the “World’s Largest Carousel”, featuring 269 characters collected from around the world and refurbished in their workshops. None of the final selection is a horse. I could have sat and watched it for hours. I had a smile from ear to ear for the whole six hours I was at House on the Rock and would definitely go back in a heartbeat. It’s by far the greatest roadside attraction I’ve ever seen. I left feeling overwhelmed and giddy and definitely knew there was no way to follow it up that day. I stopped in Mount Horeb for a quick beer and then boogied on back to Madison. I had a delicious Friday Night Fish Fry at Reverend Jim’s Roadhouse out by the casino and then called it an early night.
I was up early on Saturday and went for a morning workout before heading into downtown Madison. I had tickets to the Penn State-Wisconsin game and wanted to give myself plenty of time to park and get to the stadium. I parked near the Capitol and then wandered down State Street, stopping for a beer or two along the way.
For those of you who have been following me for a while, you know I have a particular affinity for capital cities. Being from Washington D.C. there is a certain familiarity to a capital city and how it looks and operates. Madison is even closer to my heart since both of my parents attended the University of Wisconsin at Madison and I grew up hearing stories of their time there. The Capitol Building in Madison is actually the forth Capitol of the Badger State. The first Capitol was a hastily built wooden structure in Belmont, Wisconsin which was used for a mere 42 days, during which time a new site was chosen in Madison. The second Capitol was built in Madison in 1837 and the third Capitol was begun in 1857, nine years after the Wisconsin Territory became the state of Wisconsin. That building tragically burned to the ground in 1904 and construction of the current Capitol began soon thereafter under the watchful eye of famed architect George B. Post of New York. The statue of Wisconsin on the Capitol dome was sculpted by Daniel Chester French who also sculpted the statue at the Lincoln Memorial. I loved how many badgers were to be found in the building - in the murals, overlooking the four corners and even on the statue on the dome. Wisconsin is definitely fond of its badgers. I found it interesting that the mural in the state senate chamber commemorates the opening of the Panama Canal - big news when the Capitol was built but it seems odd a hundred years later. I think my favorite story from the Wisconsin State Capitol was that of Old Abe, a bald eagle who once served as the mascot for a Wisconsin Civil War unit and accompanied them into battle. Old Abe was shot during the war but survived and went on to tour the country after the war ended. He went to live in the Capitol building for many years but accidentally died of smoke inhalation when a fire started near his cage. Old Abe was stuffed and sat overlooking the House chamber for many years until he burned in the fire of 1904. A replacement eagle was placed in the rebuilt Capitol to commemorate Old Abe’s legacy. I really enjoyed my guided tour of the Wisconsin State Capitol and hope you enjoy these photos from my visit.
Hello Everyone! I hope you’ve all had a great week since last I wrote. I can’t believe we’re already halfway through August, but it’s sure been a beautiful week here in Wisconsin. For me, it’s been a week of catching up – catching up on work and catching up with my family in the Greater Milwaukee area. Since my dad is from Milwaukee and I spent a lot of time here as a kid, there is a lot of familiarity to it even though it’s been many years since I last spent time in the area. It’s been great though, and I’m really enjoying it.
When I finished this post last week, I headed over to the Neville Public Museum in Green Bay. Right as I parked and got out of my van, the tornado sirens started going off downtown. The museum was clearly a better option than my van in a tornado, so I headed inside. The staff was great and moved us all into the theater to wait it out. Thankfully the tornados passed us by and I could go ahead and get a look at the museum. There were some interesting artifacts there, but I really wanted to learn more about the history of Green Bay and it didn’t quite deliver on that for me. I did enjoy the museum but I would have loved a better organized permanent collection. The top highlight was a very cool model of Lambeau Field built entirely out of Legos which was definitely worth seeing. When I left the museum, I went to a delicious little spot called PhoComa downtown. Green Bay (and Southern Wisconsin) has a huge Hmong population who settled there after escaping from Southeast Asia at the end of the Vietnam War. I have definitely been craving some good Southeast Asian food for a while, and this place was amazing. After dinner I went to see the Green Bay Booyah baseball team play. They play in the Northwoods League with the Traverse City Pitspitters, and that night they were playing against Racine. The storms had cleared out and it turned into a beautiful night for baseball, but the Booyah couldn’t pull one out for the home town crowd.
Thursday I headed out of Green Bay and drove through downtown Appleton to see where Harry Houdini spent much of his adult life. It seemed like a nice enough place but there was nothing to keep me there. I moved on to Fond Du Lac at the bottom of Lake Winnebago and visited the Lighthouse Park for great views out over the lake. Lake Winnebago is a massive lake but can’t really compare to the nearby Great Lakes. The Fox River passes through Lake Winnebago and connects the Great Lakes to the Mississippi River. It’s also one of the few northern flowing rivers in the country and was a major route for early traders. I really enjoyed learning about the area at the local Visitors Center but had to keep moving so I headed on towards Milwaukee where I met my cousin Emma at her office for an evening event. I got there a little early so we could catch up as it’s been 8 years since I saw her last. We had a great chat and then moved into the music venue at her office which does a monthly livestream of a local band. That night we got to see the wonderful duo of Andreas Transo and Charlene Adzima on guitar and fiddle, playing Irish tinged folk music with some definite Wisconsin flare. They were amazing and I really enjoyed the show and especially seeing it with my cousin.
The next day was State Fair Day for me and I was so excited to go. When I was growing up, the Wisconsin State Fair was a definite highlight of the summer for me every year I went. I’ve often said that one of these days I would make it back and on Friday “one of these days” became “today”.
