Central Mississippi geographic names pay tribute to our two most famous foreign-born Revolutionary War heroes. Lafayette County, which has Oxford as its county seat, is named for the French Marquis de Lafayette, and the county seat of Attala County is the tiny town of Kosciusko, named in honor of the Polish-born Tadeusz Kosciuszko. Koscuszko grew up attending military schools in Europe, and in 1776, at the age of 30, happened to be in Paris and heard about the American War for Independence. Making his way across the ocean, he volunteered in George Washington’s Army and would rise to the rank of Brigadier General. There are many lasting tributes to Kosciuszko around the country and the world including a garden at the U.S. Military Academy at West Point, and National Memorial in Philadelphia, an island in Alaska and a wonderful statue in Lafayette Park in my hometown of Washington D.C.
The Mississippi city which now bears his name was once a simple campsite along the Natchez Trace Trail known as Red Bud Springs. At some point, a tavern and blacksmith shop were built to provide for travelers making their way up the Trace. Over time this settlement grew, and would eventually be chosen as the county seat of the new Attala County.
Kosciusko is a friendly and welcoming town which centers around a stunning town square. It gets its nickname, The Beehive of the Hills because it is the industrial and retail trade center of the region (there are beehive sculptures around the square which I mistook as pineapples when I arrived). Kosciusko is probably best known as the hometown of Oprah Winfrey, but bluesman Charlie Musselwhite also hails from the town. As did James Meredith, the first African-American student to attend Ole Miss. I loved my visit to this beautiful little community where I stopped off for the night as travelers have for centuries. It was really quiet when I visited, despite it being Saturday evening, and I almost felt like I had the square to myself. The twilight was perfect for taking these photos, and the sky was a wonderful blue when I went back in the morning. I hope you enjoy these pictures of beautiful downtown Kosciusko, Mississippi - The Beehive of the Hills..
As I was driving through Double Springs, Alabama I saw in front of the courthouse what looked like the ubiquitous small-town war memorial which I have found pretty much everywhere I’ve visited on this journey in both the North and the South. But this one was different because unfurled behind it were both Union and Confederate flags, so I hit the brakes and went in for a closer look. What I discovered was a Civil War memorial to The Free State of Winston. The plaque on the memorial read as follows:
DUAL DESTINY
The Civil War was not fought between the North and South but rather between the Union and Confederate armies. Perhaps as many as 300,000 Southerners served in the Union Army. The majority of the Appalachian South, from West Virginia to Winston County, was pro-Union. Winston provided 239 Union and 112 Confederate soldiers, 21 of whom shared last names.
St. Francisville, Louisiana may be small, but it sure packs a big punch. This beautiful Southern town got its start way back in 1809. It was built on a hill overlooking the older French settlement of Bayou Sara, which was at one time the largest port on the Mississippi River between New Orleans and Memphis. For 74 days back in 1810, St. Francisville served as the capital city of the independent Republic of West Florida when it ousted its Spanish occupants before being annexed by the United States. In the years leading up to the Civil War, St. Francisville was the supply center and main town for surrounding plantations, perfectly situated for trade on a bluff high above the river. Today it contains a fascinating collection of antebellum, creole and Victorian homes, and some beautiful churches and businesses as well. I spent a lovely afternoon there, wandering the quiet streets and taking these photos. The few people I met on my stroll were remarkably pleasant and kept pointing me towards even more beautiful parts of town for me to shoot. The river has been high this year, and you’ll see a few photos at the end of the flooding in the area. St. Francisville is a wonderful escape from the big cities and offers a magical combination of small-town charm, fascinating history and delightful people. You should definitely put it on your list!
Traveling around the small towns and back roads of West Virginia, occasionally I came across a big beautiful building. Of course there are many beautiful churches around, but I thought a lot of these courthouses and government buildings were really wonderful to photograph. The Cover Photo for this post is the Trans-Allegheny Lunatic Asylum in Weston. Just the name gives me the creeps, but knowing it was in use until 1994 is staggering. Same goes for the West Virginia State Penitentiary in Moundsville which was in use until 1995. Some of these courthouses have amazing stories. The Jefferson County Courthouse in Charles Town was the site of John Brown's trial for leading a slave uprising in 1859. It was also the site of the miners' trials after the Battle of Blair Mountain. The McDowell County Courthouse in Welch was the site where...