When I told my Californian friends that I was heading to Bakersfield for a long weekend, the overwhelming response was “why?”. How about the fact that the Bakersfield Sound redefined country music and the city’s musical roots run deep with live music everywhere. There is a tradition of Basque food in Bakersfield that runs back to the gold rush and there are still a handful of old Basque restaurants around serving up quite a feast. Beyond that, the race tracks, public art, a great history museum and friendly people everywhere you go make Bakersfield a great destination. Why go to Bakersfield? Why wouldn’t you want to go?
The area around Bakersfield was once Yowlumne Indian land and they called their village here Woilu. In 1776, the intrepid Spanish missionary Francisco Garcés passed through the area on his travels. It wasn’t really until the Gold Rush that people of European decent really started making their way into this part of the San Juaquin Valley, and they came in droves. One of these new settlers was an Ohioan named Thomas Baker who built a farm on the Kern River and Baker’s Field became a stopover for travelers. Bakersfield was incorporated in 1873 and became the county seat the following year.
During the Dust Bowl era, thousands of Texans and Oklahomans flooded into the area and brought their brand of country music with them. In the 1950s, when the Nashville Sound was doing its best to bring a pop sound to country music and appeal to the masses, it was in the honkytonks of Bakersfield that musicians started to push back. The “Bakersfield Sound” is what we call this response today and Buck Owens and Merle Haggard brought that sound to the world.
I had a great time in Bakersfield. I liked the cool bars downtown like Guthrie’s Alley, where a diverse crowd always seemed on hand to drink and shoot pool. I loved the live music everywhere I went. The Kern County History Museum was phenomenal, having brought old buildings from all over the county and assembled and restored them at a central site. The Bakersfield speedway was a great experience and my stomach is still full when I think of the delicious Basque food I enjoyed in town. I had an absolute blast and can’t wait to return to Bakersfield in the future. I hope you enjoy these photos from beautiful Bakersfield, California.
All I knew about Flint when I arrived, I learned from Michael Moore's 1989 documentary Roger and Me. That and not to drink the water. Some people warned me not to go. What I found was a vibrant, clean city with an interesting past and a bright future.
In 1819, Jacob Smith established a small trading post on the Flint River. It grew quickly and become a convenient stopover on the route between Detroit and Saginaw. By 1860 the population had grown to 20,000 and Flint’s major industry, like most of the region, was lumber. In the late 19th Century, Flint became a major producer of carriages which paved the way for its entrance into the automotive market a few decades later. General Motors was founded in Flint in 1908 and would grow along with the city for many years. When GM started pulling out of Flint in 1978, the population began to drop and crime and poverty, which always go hand-in-hand, began to rise. For several years, Flint was considered one of the most dangerous cities in the country. The recent water contamination issues have led to Flint once again being in the spotlight for less than ideal reasons.
During my visit, I found a city that wasn’t ready to throw in the towel just yet. Flint has fought back against its bad reputation and taken serious steps to beautify its downtown and move the city forward. I found a vibrant Farmer’s Market, beautiful murals throughout the city, some great historical markers and statues (through a partnership with the National Park Service), and some great bars, restaurants and breweries. It was quiet when I was there, but I saw exercise classes going on in the park and some kind of jogging/scavenger hunt which looked like a lot of fun. While it was frustrating for me that their main museums were closed, they were closed for renovations and promise to come back next year better than ever. I was only in Flint for two days, but I’m certainly glad I stopped for a look. If you’re ever in the area, drop in and see what’s new in Vehicle City. You might be surprised by what you find there. I Hope you enjoy these photos from downtown Flint.
What exactly is Galveston? Is it a typically Southern town? An island with a beach vibe? An historic port city like New Orleans? A Texan town? The answer to all of those is “yes”. Galveston is a fascinating place with so much to offer. Even after a few days there I felt like I had only begun to scratch the surface of the Queen City of the Gulf.
The first non-natives to inhabit Galveston came in 1816 with the pirate Louis-Michel Aury. When Aury went on a raid the following year, he returned to find that the island had been occupied by the infamous pirate Jean Lafitte. Lafitte set up a “Pirate Kingdom” there and remained with his people for the next 5 years. The Port of Galveston was established under the Mexican government in 1825, and the town would serve briefly as the capital of the Independent Republic of Texas in 1836. Galveston, along with the rest of Texas, joined the Confederacy during the Civil War and became a target due to its major port…
Beaumont, Texas traces its roots back to 1824 when Bobby and Nancy Tevis settled on the Neches River and built a small farm. A community grew up around them called Tevis Bluff. Developers Henry Millard, Joseph Pulsifer and Thomas Byers Huling purchased all of the land in the area in 1835 and began selling lots in a town to be called “Beaumont” after Henry Millard’s wife Mary Beaumont. Lumber, cattle and rice were early drivers of the local economy, as was the port which got these products to market. That all changed in 1901 when oil was discovered at Spindletop, and America’s first oil field was developed right there in Beaumont. The town’s population tripled almost overnight and oil has been the city’s main economic driver ever since. Today, Beaumont is a quiet city of about 120,000 people, with most living outside of the downtown core. I found the city to be charming, with a lot of great historical buildings. My favorites were the Jefferson Theater and Tyrell Historical Library. I was sad to see that despite some wonderful efforts at reviving the downtown area there didn’t seem to be much going on there during my visit. Regardless, I enjoyed my stay in Beaumont and it is definitely a city I will return to in the future.
Winona, Mississippi got its start when Colonel O.J. Moore arrived from Virginia in 1848 and established a plantation in the area. When the Mississippi Central Railroad came through in 1860, they bought a part of Moore’s land and ran tracks which would eventually become part of the Illinois Central Line from Chicago to New Orleans. Moore sold some more land around the station and a few businesses sprung up to serve the rail travelers. When the town was incorporated in 1861, they chose the name Winona, which is apparently the name an Indian Chief would give his first-born daughter. After the Civil War, Montgomery County was organized, and Winona was chosen as the county seat. While the trains no longer pass through Winona, it still sits at the crossroads of highways 51 and 82 and is just a short distance from Interstate 55.It also rests right between the Delta and the Hills regions of the state. Winona has often been called the “Crossroads of North Mississippi”, but I’ve also seen it called the “Art and Soul of Mississippi”, a nickname which I think I prefer. This Norman Rockwellesque town of about 5000 is definitely full of charm and worth a detour from the highway. I wasn’t there long, but I definitely enjoyed my stay in tiny Winona, Mississippi. I hope you enjoy these photos from my visit.
Columbus charmed me from the minute I arrived. It is a lovely, small city of about 25,000 located in eastern Mississippi on the Tombigbee River. Columbus, called The Friendly City, is the county seat of Lowndes County, and boasts one of the most beautiful county courthouses in the state. It forms one point of the “Golden Triangle” with nearby Starkville and West Point. Founded in 1819, Columbus has some wonderful historic homes, churches and businesses, and won the Great American Main Street Award in 2010. The town briefly served as the Mississippi State Capitol in 1863 when Union forces occupied Jackson. Nearby Columbus Air Force Base is the main driver of the city’s economy, but Columbus is also home to the Mississippi University for Women (called “The W” locally). Playwright Tennessee Williams was born in Columbus, and his birthplace now serves as both a hometown tribute to Williams, and the town’s Welcome Center. Catfish Alley, the city’s old African-American Business District was once a thriving community in which some of Mississippi’s great blues musicians played. Bukka White even wrote a song about the area in 1969 called Columbus Mississippi Blues.. Friendship Cemetery is one of several places in the country which claims the origin of our Memorial Day and has some beautiful and moving monuments and memorials.
Today, you’ll find a quiet and friendly city with some wonderful restaurants, beautiful antebellum homes and a classically Southern, Mississippian and American downtown. Highlights for me were definitely the Stephen D. Lee Home, the Tennessee Williams Birthplace, the cemetery, a stand-alone barber’s pole and just wandering the historic district and seeing the beautiful homes to be found there. I found Columbus to be welcoming and beautiful and really enjoyed my visit. My camera was also very busy during my stay, and I hope you enjoy these photos from my time in The Friendly City of the Black Prairies.
Holly Springs was founded in 1836 on land previously occupied by the Chickasaw people after the Treaty of Pototoc Crreek forced them west. New settlers came to the region quickly and scrambled to buy up land and start planting cotton. As the county seat, Holly Springs grew rapidly as well and even more-so when the Mississippi Central Railroad came through in 1855. During the Civil War, the strategic nature of the railroad came into play and Holly Springs was occupied by Ulysses S. Grant and his Army of the Tennessee. Confederate Cavalry Commander Earl Van Dorn rode into Holly Springs before dawn on December 20th, 1862. The surprise attack temporarily cut off the Union supply route as Van Dorn’s men took all the supplies they could carry and burned the rest. After the war, Holly Springs would resume its role as a cotton center and railroad hub. Rust College was established in Holly Springs in 1866 to help educated newly freed slaves in the area. The college is still in operation today, making it one of the oldest Historically Black Colleges and Universities in the South.
Holly Springs today is a pleasant town of about 7500. I was thrilled to see construction going on while I was there and to find a Mississippi town which is growing and improving instead of deteriorating. There are a number of wonderful Antebellum homes to see in town, and the bustling town square has several restaurants and coffee shops when you get hungry. When I was there, I stopped in to the Visitors Center and spoke with Jamie who was super helpful in pointing out all the wonderful things Holly Springs has to offer. It should definitely be your first stop when you go to visit. I had a great day in Holly Springs and loved taking the photos you’ll see in this post. It’s a town on the rise, and I look forward to seeing how far it’s gotten the next time I’m in town.
Gadsden rests quietly on the banks of the Coosa River in Northwest Alabama. Founded in 1825 and originally called Double Springs, the town was renamed in honor of American diplomat James Gadsden. James Gadsden was most famous for negotiating the Gadsden Purchase, which included parts of southern Arizona and New Mexico, the acquisition of which allowed for the building of a transcontinental railroad. The town of Gadsden was once a major riverboat port and would become a center of industry during the industrial revolution. That industry would allow Gadsden to thrive for much of the next century, but as companies left town in the seventies and eighties, the city fell on hard times. Gadsden has worked hard to redevelop its downtown area and while it’s definitely a sleepy town, it has a lot of charm. I really enjoyed my visit to Gadsden. I hadn’t been there in many years and was happy to see so many storefronts occupied and to find downtown bustling. If you ever find yourself in the area, set aside some time for a stroll downtown, a visit to the art gallery and some seafood at one of the many excellent restaurants in town. You’ll be glad you did. Enjoy these photos from downtown Gadsden, Alabama’s City of Champions.
Selma, Alabama is a stunning city. Rarely have I driven into a place on this whole journey where I have been more eager to jump out of my van and start taking photos. The downtown area is packed with historic buildings reminiscent of days gone by. The neighborhoods are full of old Victorian-era mansions that hark back to better days in the Queen City of the Black Belt. As in most of the Black Belt of Alabama, cotton was king during the antebellum period and Selma’s position right on the Alabama River made it a prime place for a thriving city. During the war, Selma was a major shipbuilding center and manufacturing town for the confederacy. The post-war years were difficult on Selma and race relations were strained way past the point of breaking as lynchings and intimidation were common occurrences. Selma became notorious during the Civil Rights Movement, especially on the topic of voting rights, and was the jumping off point for the Selma to Montgomery March. Driving or walking around Selma today, it is apparent that the city has seen better days. Buildings are crumbling and many of the old homes are boarded up and falling apart, but it doesn’t take a lot of imagination to picture what it once was. As in so many parts of the country, the economy in Selma is struggling and there aren’t enough jobs or money to go around. I hope for the best for the future of this beautiful city. You should definitely go for a visit, spend some time in the wonderful Selma to Montgomery National Historic Trail visitor center run by the National Park Service, walk across the Edmund Petus Bridge and then just go for a ramble and see what you can find. While at first glance you may think that “Queen City” is a bit grandiose, but the deeper you look the more appropriate you’ll find it. I hope you enjoy these photos from The Queen City of the Black Belt.
Montgomery, Alabama is a town full of history. Founded on the Alabama River soon after Alabama became a state in 1819, it became the state capital in 1846. Montgomery served as the capital of the Confederacy for four months following the state’s secession, and is where Jefferson Davis took his oath of office as President. Montgomery has also been the site of many Civil Rights battles, from the Montgomery Bus Boycott to the Selma to Montgomery March for voting rights. Martin Luther King Jr. served as the pastor for the Dexter Avenue Baptist Church for several years. Today, Montgomery is a clean and quiet city with some beautiful buildings, a great riverfront and lots of fascinating museums. I really enjoyed my visit to Alabama’s capital city and hope you enjoy these photos from my stay.
Pulling into downtown Dothan, Alabama, I had no idea what to expect from it. I knew it was the seventh largest city in Alabama, and the “Hub of the Wiregrass” - a region which covers southeast Alabama, southwest Georgia and parts of the Florida panhandle. Other than that I was pretty much going in blind. What I found was a pleasant city with a compact downtown full of beautiful murals and statues. Dothan has an excellent art museum, a gorgeous opera house, and some wonderful cafes and restaurants all within just a few blocks of each other. It was a quiet and pleasurable place for a stroll, and I had a beautiful day to do just that. I spent several hours photographing this beautiful city, and you can see the results in this post. I really enjoyed my time in Dothan and I’m already looking forward to my next visit. If you’re ever in southeast Alabama, be sure you stop in and say ‘hello’ - you will definitely be surprised by what you find here.
St. Francisville, Louisiana may be small, but it sure packs a big punch. This beautiful Southern town got its start way back in 1809. It was built on a hill overlooking the older French settlement of Bayou Sara, which was at one time the largest port on the Mississippi River between New Orleans and Memphis. For 74 days back in 1810, St. Francisville served as the capital city of the independent Republic of West Florida when it ousted its Spanish occupants before being annexed by the United States. In the years leading up to the Civil War, St. Francisville was the supply center and main town for surrounding plantations, perfectly situated for trade on a bluff high above the river. Today it contains a fascinating collection of antebellum, creole and Victorian homes, and some beautiful churches and businesses as well. I spent a lovely afternoon there, wandering the quiet streets and taking these photos. The few people I met on my stroll were remarkably pleasant and kept pointing me towards even more beautiful parts of town for me to shoot. The river has been high this year, and you’ll see a few photos at the end of the flooding in the area. St. Francisville is a wonderful escape from the big cities and offers a magical combination of small-town charm, fascinating history and delightful people. You should definitely put it on your list!
