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Mardi Gras

This Week on the Road - February 9th-16th

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This Week on the Road - February 9th-16th

Hello Everyone! I’ve had a great week soaking up the sights, sounds, smells and tastes of New Orleans, sharing laughs with old friends and just enjoying a few days in my favorite city. I went to some of the first parades of the Mardi Gras season, ate plenty of crawfish and king cake, heard some great music and generally just wandered around the city I called home for longer than most other places in my life. The weather has been warm and sunny and it’s been a pleasant week all around. I have also taken care of some things this week which needed to get done before I moved forward with my journey like getting new tires for Shadow Catcher and finishing my taxes. All in all, it’s been a great week and I’ve had a great time, and while it was tempting to stay in New Orleans for the rest of Mardi Gras, I hit the road today and ended up at a beautiful little café here in Lafayette to write this week’s This Week. We’re supposed to get storms here tomorrow, so I’ll be laying low while they pass through and hope to press on west in the afternoon. I hope everyone had a wonderful Valentine’s Day and celebrated the beauty of love, whether with someone or alone, and that you’re all safe and warm wherever you are.

After I finished this post last week, I did in fact make a beeline for New Orleans. There were plenty of places I would have loved to stop along the way, and people I really wanted to stop and see, but my compass pointed me south and I went for it. Had I left 2-3 weeks earlier as originally planned, it would have been a slower drive south but I really need to get moving if I want to see New Mexico and Arizona before heading to California for work this summer. I arrived in New Orleans at about 9:30 pm and had a nice, quiet walk around the French Quarter, parked just a few blocks from my old apartment there. I always feel a little lighter when I’m walking the streets of New Orleans, like the weight of the world is pressing down somewhere else and we’re all just going to suspend our disbelief a little bit and forget about what’s going on “out there”. The history of the city, its Spanish colonial architecture and creole culture really hit me in the heart and soul and I can spend hours just wandering around and looking at the buildings, as I did often during the two years that I lived there. It never seems to get old. There are even smells that will hit my nose which aren’t necessarily pleasant ones but which link to sense memories of all of the wonderful times that I’ve had there. Sadly, the city is in a low place in its omnipresent cycle of ups and downs which stretches back to the very founding of New Orleans. Crime is as high as it’s been in years and the pandemic and most recent hurricane have definitely had an effect on the infrastructure, population and morale of the city. Having lived there during another low point after Hurricane Katrina, I know it will bounce back again, but I was sad to hear so many of my friends, even those born and raised there, talking about leaving. I know it is different living there and I empathize with everything they told me, but it didn’t stop me from having an amazing week in the Big Easy. Later in the evening I wandered into one of the neighborhood bars I frequented while I lived there and it was nice to be greeted by my name 13 years after I moved away and see a friendly and familiar face (thanks Robert).

Thursday I woke early and wandered down to the river, stopping for coffee and beignets and a little street jazz at Café du Monde. I headed down to the French Market to see what the local artists were selling and then all the way down Royal Street to Canal, enjoying the buskers and architecture along the way. The sun was shining and there was music in the air it felt really good to be there. After a nice, long morning walk, I headed out to the gym and then across the street for some boiled crawfish and king cake at Rouse’s Supermarket. I had a wonderful personal tailgate in the parking lot with some good music, cold beer and a whole pile of mudbugs. When I was nice and full I headed over to my good friend Walker’s house which is where I stayed for most of my visit. I met Walker when I first moved to the city in 2007. He lived down the street from me and we hung out often, exploring the bars in the French Quarter and trying to help each other through that first year of classroom teaching. Walker grew up in New Orleans, so always seemed to have the inside track on what was going on around town and I was happy to tag along. While I stopped teaching many years ago now, Walker has been in the classroom since, but is taking a little sabbatical this year to clear his head and make a plan for the future. It’s been great to hang out with him and his lovely girlfriend Megan and her daughter. We spent Thursday night catching up and walking their dogs and having a couple of cold beers in their charming home…

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This Week on the Road - February 20th-27th

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This Week on the Road - February 20th-27th

Hey y’all, it’s time for another edition of This Week on the Road. It’s going to be a short one this week because I only really spent the first couple of days of the week on the road. Since Saturday I’ve been relaxing here in New Orleans, spending time with my friends and enjoying the Mardi Gras weekend. I did have a great few days along the coast to wind up my time in Mississippi though, and wanted to share what I got up to out there.

My week started in Pascagoula in the rain, but I quickly moved on to Ocean Springs. I really liked this quaint and quiet seaside town with its thriving artists community, pleasant bars, and good restaurants. It seemed like a vibrant and livable place. My first stop was a restaurant I’ve wanted to get to for a while: The Shed Barbecue and Blues Joint. The Shed is a South Mississippi Institution, and occupies a huge, ramshackle building just north of the interstate. The Shed is the kind of place that chains have been trying to emulate for a long time, but with little success. The place is full of old beer and traffic signs, mismatched furniture and dollar bills hanging from the ceiling. It’s the real deal though with great food, wonderful employees and an all around good feel to it. I went with the ShedHed Sampler which came with all seven of their smoked meats and three sides. For $26 I didn’t expect too much, but what came out was amazing. It was a tray piled high with food, enough to fill me up that night, and also for lunch and dinner the next day as well. It was a great meal and experience and I will definitely come back to The Shed in the future. After dinner, I went for some live music and a few beers at the Glory Bound Gyro Co. on Government Street. It was a little chilly, but not too cold to enjoy the outdoor seating area which had a beachy feel to it. I sat by the palm tree and enjoyed some acoustic music there, and later popped in for a quick beer at a place called The Juke Joint. I really liked this divey bar in a hundred year old house a mile or so from the main part of downtown as well.

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Mardi Gras 2020 - Skeletons, Indians and Walking Parades

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Mardi Gras 2020 - Skeletons, Indians and Walking Parades

I didn’t really intend to be in New Orleans for Mardi Gras this year, but after getting a late start from Washington in January and spending more time in Mississippi than I had planned, the stars aligned and I found myself pulling into New Orleans on the Saturday of Mardi Gras weekend. Normally when I’m here for Mardi Gras, I come to town at least week early to catch some of my favorite parades, see some friends, eat some of that great New Orleans food and enjoy myself. By the time Fat Tuesday rolls around, I’m already pretty tired from all of the lead-up. This year, I was still pretty fresh for the big day, and I wanted to experience some of the traditions I had either never seen before, or not experienced in the way I wanted to. I kept a loose plan in my head and allowed myself to go with the flow, warning my friends that I might break off at any moment and go a different direction. This all allowed me to have an amazing Mardi Gras, see some different sides to the experience, and gain a better understanding of the traditions of the day. I thought I’d share my my Mardi Gras with y’all in this post.

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Fred's Lounge - Keeping Cajun Music Alive

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Fred's Lounge - Keeping Cajun Music Alive

Fred’s Lounge in downtown Mamou, Louisiana isn’t a big place. In fact, depending on which way you’re driving, you could drive past it and never know you missed it. It’s not fancy and if you weren’t aiming for it, it probably wouldn’t entice you to stop by its appearance. Fred’s is only open for about six hours a week, from about 8 a.m. to about 2 p.m. every Saturday morning, so if you came through Mamou at any other time it would be closed anyway. But during those six hours, it is a magical place to be.

For those of you who know me, you’ll know that I have a very special place in my heart for the Mississippi Delta and for the Delta Blues in particular. If you visit Clarksdale these days, in the very heart of the Delta, you can find live blues seven days a week, although it’s taken a concerted effort over many years to make that happen. It’s amazing, but it exists in a museum state. By that I mean that while you can see it in a great juke joint like Red’s, you will watch it sitting down on what was once the dance floor…

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Mardi Gras Parades

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Mardi Gras Parades

There are a LOT of photos in this post. Mardi Gras parades in Louisiana are some of the most vivid, colorful, vibrant, sensory overloading events in the whole world. The colors, the costumes, the floats, the music and the excitement are all overwhelming. They are joyful and happy events marking the biggest celebration of the year in the state. Photographing them is a true joy, and all of these photos make me extremely happy. In these photos I want to show you the floats, the riders, the spectators, the bands and walking groups that make up the Mardi Gras parades. There are also a few of my favorite kind of Mardi Gras shot - trying to capture beads in mid-air between thrower and catcher. There are six parades featured in this post. The first is the Krewe of Slidellians from Slidell, Louisiana. The following night parade is from the Krewe of Rio in Lafayette. The next daytime parades were the Krewe of Carrolton followed by the Krewe of King Arthur on the same day taken from Lee Circle in New Orleans. There are two photos from the Krewe of Nyx nighttime parade in New Orleans, and finally are a few from the huge Spanish Town parade in Baton Rouge, the pinkest event I’ve ever witnessed. I know there are probably too many photos for one post here, but it was hard to cut it down to just the ones I included. I hope you enjoy them and I hope you can feel the excitement and happiness I tried to capture here. More than anything, I hope they make you smile.

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Mardi Gras in New Orleans

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Mardi Gras in New Orleans

It was wonderful to be back in Louisiana for the end of the Mardi Gras season this year. I got out to see parades in several different towns, and then made my way back to New Orleans for Fat Tuesday itself. It’s a wonderful time of year to be in Louisiana, and for those who have never been, it is so much more than the booze fueled tourist mess you’ve seen on COPS and Girls Gone Wild. It’s full of food and fun and family, parades throwing beads and stuffed animals to kids sitting atop ladders, good vibes and a chance to let your hair down and relax. I needed to let my hair down and relax a bit this time around, and Mardi Gras has been just the cure to the February blues I needed.

I started my Mardi Gras this year with a quiet walk through the French Quarter just after 8 a.m. I was surprised at how few people were out and how quiet it was. The street cleaners were just finishing up on Bourbon Street which gleamed in the morning sun. Jackson Square was empty and there were plenty of open seats at Cafe du Monde. I always love walking around the French Quarter early in the morning, but it was amazing to see it cleaned up and waiting for the revelers to come out and play…

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Snapshots: Mardi Gras Costumes

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Snapshots: Mardi Gras Costumes

It was amazing to be back in Louisiana for Mardi Gras this year. I got to catch parades in Lafayette, Baton Rouge, Slidell and New Orleans, and spent Fat Tuesday in the Big Easy with friends. One of the best parts of Mardi Gras are the wonderful costumes people wear. Much like Halloween, you can go as absolutely anything for Mardi Gras, and people do. My favorites are always the really colorful and intricate costumes, especially those that are handmade and obviously took a long time to create. I spent much of the day wandering around the French Quarter, Marigny and Bywater neighborhoods trying to catch the spirit of the day through people’s costumes. I hope you enjoy these photos of my favorite Mardi Gras costumes from 2019 in Louisiana.

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