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This Week on the Road - November 24th-December 1st

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This Week on the Road - November 24th-December 1st

Hello Everyone! I can’t believe it’s December, but it certainly is. Happy Holidays to you all. A very Happy Chanukah to everyone celebrating it around the world this week. And Christmas is definitely right around the corner as the stores are decorated and Christmas trees are starting to show up in the windows of peoples’ homes. I really love the Christmas season and am happy to be home for it again this year. It is sweeter for me to come home for it than just to be home for it like I was last year. I’ve spent a lot of Christmases and New Year’s Eves working, either on tour or at a restaurant somewhere, so it’s always nice to not have to work this time of year and I’m definitely grateful. I’m looking forward to spending the holidays with family and friends, attending Christmas events and enjoying it as much as I can. This is going to be a pretty short newsletter this week as I haven’t been doing a whole lot. I spent Thanksgiving and the following weekend with my dad in West Virginia and then made the drive home to D.C. on Monday in one shot. It’s been more off the road than on the road this week, which is fine with me.

It was great to pull into Charleston last Wednesday and see my dad and his partner, Judy, as I hadn’t seen them since before the pandemic started. They’re both well and in good spirits. Unfortunately, my dad’s macular degeneration has only gotten worse so he can’t see much at all which really limits what he can do. That’s just one more reason for me to keep doing what I’m doing for as long as I’m able to. I’m sorry because all of his retirement plans went out the window with his eyesight, but sadly there’s nothing that he or I or his doctors can do about it. I was definitely surprised that their dog, Sadie, remembers me after so many months. Sadie was rescued from a pretty bad situation and basically hates everyone except the two of them. A few years ago, when we were all visiting my brother in New Hampshire, I thought that Sadie looked like she couldn’t breathe and was having a heart attack. Well my dad couldn’t see her obviously and Judy came down on the side of better safe than sorry so we rushed her to the all-night vet. She was having a heart attack and they kept her overnight. We picked her up the next day, she hasn’t barked at me since. This week she actually came and curled up on my lap. I don’t know how dogs know or how they remember, but she certainly does.

It was a quiet Thanksgiving with just the three of us, but we did have a delicious ham, some great sides including a delightful broccoli casserole and of course two varieties of pie. We all slept in in the morning and we all enjoyed an afternoon nap as well. In fact, I slept quite a bit while I was there. Living in my van, no matter how safe a spot I am parked in overnight, some part of my subconscious has to be alert and aware. When I finally get to a warm, safe place I sleep really deeply and really well…

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Snapshots: Henderson - A Quick Stop on the Minnesota River

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Snapshots: Henderson - A Quick Stop on the Minnesota River

Little Henderson, Minnesota is a town of about 900 people on the Minnesota River just southwest of Minneapolis. Henderson was founded by Joseph Brown in 1852 and was originally a lumber town. Two brickyards soon joined in and the town grew. Henderson was originally the Sibley County seat, but would lose that role to nearby Gaylord in 1915 and its old courthouse was converted into a community building. Two scenes from Minnesota native musician Prince’s movie Purple Rain were filmed in Henderson, and the town has really tried to capitalize on that. There is a beautiful mural right on Main Street and there used to be a statue and bench there too, but both have unfortunately been moved inside and out of view during non-business hours. I enjoyed a quick stop in Henderson and a look at some of their wonderful historic buildings and an ice cream at Toody’s was definitely a highlight. I hope you enjoy these photos from tiny Henderson on the Minnesota River.

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Happy Thanksgiving From Miles2Go

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Happy Thanksgiving From Miles2Go

Happy Thanksgiving y’all. I know this is an American holiday, but it’s a great day to express how thankful I am for all of the wonderful things in my life. First and foremost, I’m thankful for all of you for helping make this project and this dream a reality. Without your words of encouragement, notes and emails I don’t know if I could have kept going through four years and a global pandemic. I’m thankful for my family who supports this dream and never pressures me to get a “real job” or to “settle down”. They understand that however strange or foreign this might be, it makes me happy and that’s the most important thing. I’m thankful for all of my friends around the country and the world who have encouraged me, put me up, lent me their ear and pointed me in the right direction. I’m thankful for Shadow Catcher, my wonderful van which has been incredibly dependable for a 24 year old vehicle and to all of those who have kept keep it on the road - especially the great guys at Champion Auto Repair in Sterling, Virginia. I’m thankful for all the travelers who came before me who shared the ups and downs of their journey so that I might learn from their mistakes and not repeat them. I’m thankful for all of the businesses who let me stay the night in their parking lots which allows me feel safe and sleep soundly. I’m thankful for all of those people who keep the National and state parks wild, beautiful and accessible, the historic sites open and accurate, the music venues rocking, the tiki bars pouring and the libraries, gas stations, gyms, coffee shops and restaurants open and welcoming. It’s been an incredible four years and two weeks on the road (minus the time I was home for the pandemic), and I’m just getting started. But this isn’t just my journey, but our journey and I’m incredibly thankful for every one of you and for all of those who don’t even know they’ve kept this project afloat. Thank you all.

-Mike

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This Week on the Road - November 17th-24th

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This Week on the Road - November 17th-24th

Hello everyone and a very Happy Thanksgiving to all of my American friends out there. I have made it to my dad’s place in Charleston, West Virginia for Turkey Day and will be here through the weekend. It’s nice to be in out of the cold and with my family and I’m looking forward to a few weeks off the road before setting off again early next year. This week has been about making my way east, catching up with friends, warming up at some of the Midwest’s finest tiki bars and catching some great (and not so great) live music along the way. I’ve slept a lot this week as the long nights and cold weather have inspired early bedtimes and late mornings, but I’m also coming down from a busy 6 months on the road and need a little extra sleep. When I pulled out of Minnesota, I considered my 3 state mission complete and shifted my focus to some down time. I still have plenty of photos to get to and a podcast that’s been gathering dust, but it was time to enjoy myself and the long ride home. It hasn’t been the busiest of weeks, but I’d love to share with you what I’ve been up to.

When I left off last week I was in Milwaukee and headed out with my cousins for the evening. Sadly, one of the two of them had just gotten her booster shot and was not feeling up to it, so it turned out to be just myself and Emmalyn and we joined her husband, Brian, a little later in the evening. It was great to see them and hear what they’ve been up to these last few months. I’m very grateful for the time they’ve shared with me this summer. While we’ve been Facebook friends for years and kept in touch that way, it’s nice to connect with them and know more about that side of my family.

Thursday I woke up to snow swirling around my van. I hit the gym and then headed to the grocery store in the morning to pick up some things for my dad. He grew up in Milwaukee, so I wanted to get him some brats, sausage, cheese, a Racine kringle and a few other things from his home state since I was on my way to see him. I also picked up some New Glarus beer (which you can’t buy outside the state) to share with my friends back at home. Then I headed south to Illinois and stopped at the library to get some work done and let the traffic in Chicago die down. I knew I would be up late in the Windy City, so I also took a nice long afternoon nap. When I got up, I ordered a deep-dish, Chicago style pizza from Pequod’s on the recommendation of one of my Chicago friends. Chicago pizza takes about 45 minutes to cook, so I ordered it before I left and then headed on down to the city. It wasn’t quite ready when I got there, so I got it right out of the oven which was the plan. I really love Chicago style pizza, and while I don’t think this was the best one I’ve ever gotten, it was still really good. With a couple of slices of pizza in me, I headed on to Kingston Mines, Chicago’s oldest and largest blues club. They have live blues on two alternating stages 365 days out of the year and are always a great bet for good music in Chicago. I was happy to find the club alive and well after having not been there for many years and I was happy to see many young people in the audience as Blues usually attracts an older crowd. Some young theatre kids were even showing off their dance moves which was fun, although one couple looked more like they were having synchronized seizures than dancing. The music was great on both stages and I would have loved to stay until their 3am closing time, but I knew that wasn’t going to be a good idea under the circumstances. The best time to get through the city of Chicago is between midnight and 5am, so I only had two beers while I was at the club and headed south just after twelve. From Lincoln Park, which is on the north side of Chicago, all the way to the Indiana border only took me 35 minutes which is a near miracle. The road along the Lake Michigan shoreline was clear and quick and I enjoyed nighttime views of downtown and the Navy Pier. While I got to bed pretty late, I knew it had saved some serious time for the next day so I wasn’t too worried about it.

Friday morning I headed out to Indiana Dunes National Park on the south shore of Lake Michigan. It was great to see the lake again and I enjoyed a visit to the Century of Progress Homes in the park. These model homes were on display at the 1933 World’s Fair in Chicago and then were moved via barge across Lake Michigan and set up on the shoreline there.

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Snapshots: Farwell, Minnesota. Population 51

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Snapshots: Farwell, Minnesota. Population 51

Farwell, Minnesota was established in 1886 when the Soo Line Railroad came through the area. Today the population is just 51 people in 27 households and the town rests on a tiny .29 square miles of land. The main street in town, Stanley Avenue, is composed of a post office which operated from 1887 until 1996 and a long dormant one-room schoolhouse. While I was there a wonderful tumbleweed tumbled through town and I was the only one there to watch it go. I love towns this size, but have rarely found one so enjoyable to photograph. I smiled the whole time I was there. I hope you enjoy these photos from tiny Farwell, Minnesota.

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Snapshots: Wadena - Historic Charm on the Edge of the Prairies

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Snapshots: Wadena - Historic Charm on the Edge of the Prairies

Wadena is a cute little town of just over 4,000 people which straddles the border between Wadena and Otter Tail Counties. The town was founded in 1871 and takes its name from an Ojibwe Chief. The town created a public art display called The World’s Largest Puzzle which is composed of a hundred puzzle-shaped murals scattered around town. It was the wheat-themed light posts that pulled me in, though, and the bright white water tower that got me to stay. You’ll see both featured prominently in these photos. I had a nice stay in Wadena and found it a pleasant place with friendly people. The highlight for me was a visit to the Little Round Still, one of Minnesota’s up-and-coming craft distilleries. The folks there were kind and welcoming and I enjoyed sampling their Gunflint whiskey. I even took a bottle to go. Wadena seems like the kind of place most people just blow on past, but if you’re ever in the area, stop on in and give it a chance. You may find yourself staying for longer than you imagined. I hope you enjoy these photos from friendly and historic Wadena, Minnesota.

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This Week on the Road - November 10th-17th

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This Week on the Road - November 10th-17th

Hello Everyone! Greetings from Milwaukee! I have made my way out of Minnesota after a wonderful 6+ week stay and am on my way home for the holidays. I’ll admit I’m pretty tired after the last 5 months on the road and am looking forward to a few weeks off, catching up with friends and catching up on some sleep. I’ve been pushing hard these last few weeks to get through what I wanted to see and get out before winter really set in. There’s definitely been snow this week, the sun is setting at 4:45pm and nighttime temperatures have dropped below freezing every night. All the signs are there that it’s time for me to follow the geese and head south and that’s exactly what I’m going to do. All of that being said, it’s been another great week on the road. I spent this week exploring the Twin Cities and then cruising down the Great River Road and checking out the historic Mississippi River towns along the way. It’s been overcast and snowy and has made photography challenging, but it’s also cleared up at times and given me some beautiful winter lighting to shoot with. I still have plenty of photos to edit and publish, so you’ll be seeing Minnesota photos for a few weeks to come, but I have officially left the Gopher State.

When I left you last week, I was headed to lunch with my old friend, Rich. I met Rich almost 22 years ago in New Jersey when I was interviewing for the tour company with which I would spend most of the intervening years. When that company shut its doors for good last year during the pandemic, Rich was the one locking those doors behind us. It was good to see him, catch up on the few people we’re both in touch with and share a meal and a few laughs. After lunch I headed on to the Minnesota State Capitol in St. Paul and took the last guided tour of the day. Our guide was great and told us all about the history of Minnesota’s three Capitol buildings. I was particularly interested in all of the materials they had used in its construction, from local granite to the incredible pipestone I mentioned last week to fine Italian marble. None of the government bodies were in session, so the building was quiet and we had the run of the place. We even got up on the roof for commanding views over the city and a close-up look at the gold-plated Quadriga (four horse chariot) on the front of the dome. After the tour I spent some time wandering the empty building and looking in the nooks and crannies and remembering the pre-September 11th days when I could do the same in our U.S. Capitol. That evening I headed over to First Avenue, one of Minneapolis’ premier music venues, and used the 7th St Entry to get to their smaller, underground club. When I got there, Darrin Bradury was just coming on stage with his quirky tunes about life on the road. The headliner was Minneapolis-based rock band Nato Coles and the Blue Diamond Band, who rocked the small room and got everyone’s toes tapping. It was a good show and so good to see live music again after way too long. I was also happy they were checking vaccination cards at the door which made the small club feel much safer.

Thursday morning I made a quick trip to the Mall of America in Bloomington, which the country’s largest indoor mall. I wandered around for a little while, checked out the amusement park in the middle of it all and the free parts of the aquarium which were both pretty cool. Beyond that, it was just a really big mall. I could definitely imagine it being a nice place to go in the middle of winter to escape the snow and find some fun options with your kids, but I’ve been to malls before and had better things to do with my day. I headed on to the Minnesota History Center which was much more my style. This is the state’s central history museum and I found it fairly progressive, but thought it walked that line well and seemed to present a reasonably balanced look at the state’s history. The main exhibit in the middle was really good, and looked at the different regions of the state and the people that have lived there through the years. I also enjoyed the temporary exhibits on Minnesota weather, the Greatest Generation, Sinclair Lewis and Women’s Rights. I was in the museum for several hours and then headed over to my friend Mark’s house for the night. Mark and I taught together at Francis Gregory Elementary School in New Orleans way back in 2008. It was my second year at the school and his first and I was impressed that he made it through the year (very few teachers there did). While he was fighting different battles than I was, it was an incredibly challenging year in one of the country’s worst schools. He went on to teach in New Orleans for many years before returning home to Minnesota. He’s still teaching now, in fact, and still facing challenges but with a whole lot more experience under his belt. He invited me to stay at his home and then took me to a great dinner at The Blue Door for a beer and a burger. While we were eating and chatting, the snow began to fall but it wasn’t quite the heavy snow that had been predicted. After dinner we went back to his house and sipped some delicious Roknar whiskey (which is made in Minnesota) and chatted long into the night. It was very cozy to sleep in a warm bed in a warm room while the snow was falling outside and also great to catch up with my old friend…

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Snapshots: Taylors Falls on the St. Croix River

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Snapshots: Taylors Falls on the St. Croix River

Taylors Falls is a tiny little town of about a thousand people which rests high up on the banks of the St. Croix River and right across the water from Wisconsin. The town gets its name from one of its early settlers, Jesse Taylor. The “falls” are really just a set of rapids, but they made riverboat travel impossible beyond this point in the early years, making Taylors Falls the jumping-off point for many an immigrant headed west into the Minnesota Territory. The town contains half of the beautiful Interstate State Park which protects the Dalles section of the river and their fascinating potholes which were carved by glacial runoff whirlpools and can be 30+ feet deep. I found a lot to smile about in Taylor Falls and it seemed like every time I took a photo, I saw another one just down the road. It’s a fun little town to explore and definitely worth a visit if you’re in the area. I hope you enjoy these photos from my stay in Taylors Falls, Minnesota.

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This Week on the Road - November 3rd-10th

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This Week on the Road - November 3rd-10th

Hello Everyone! When many of you will be reading this, Shadow Catcher and I will be celebrating the 4 year anniversary of this project. We set out together on November 11th, 2017 from our home base in Washington D.C. to Harpers Ferry, West Virginia. At the time, the plan was to spend a month in each of the 48 contiguous states, which, if done in one long stretch, would have put an end date right around now. I learned very quickly that a month isn’t very long when it comes to really getting to know a state and while I still try and move right along, six weeks seems like a more realistic timeframe. My dreams of financial success with this project have been all but a complete bust, so I have had to stop and go back to guiding to replenish my coffers. Thankfully, it’s a job I love and it’s fairly easy to put away money in a short time and keep going. And of course who could have predicted a global pandemic, which grounded us for 15 months at home? That time was a blessing as I got to spend it with my folks and watching young Mason every day on his journey from 2 to 3 years old. On the plus side, I’ve seen and done so much, learned more than I ever thought possible and met many truly wonderful people along the way. It’s been everything I hoped it would be and infinitely more and I’m grateful every day for this project, this journey, and all of you who have chosen to share in it. Like any journey, it’s had its ups and downs, but at the end of the day, I wouldn’t trade it for anything. As I wind up my time in Minnesota, my 16th of 48 states, that would leave me 1/3 of the way there. I don’t know if I’ll finish this project, but I’m definitely planning to keep going for the near future. Thank you all for coming along for the ride.

It’s been a very busy week blazing across the prairies of Southwest Minnesota. With daylight savings time ending and snow in the forecast, it is definitely time to start making an exit plan, but I didn’t want to miss out on a whole region. I’ve definitely driven more this week than I usually do and I’ve seen some pretty amazing places but it’s also been pretty fast and furious. That being said, I’ve driven past some fascinating things this week that either gave me pause or a good chuckle. When I drove through Brainerd again this week, I passed by the Warriors Early Childhood Learning Center. Their school team name is the Warriors, but to an outsider I thought this was pretty funny. I also drove past the towns of Nimrod, Sleepy Eye and Weetown – all of which made me smile. I saw a Sasquatch Reporting Station in Starbuck and a street called Oink Joint Rd. The Starbuck High School mascot is the Bucks, the Fergus Falls (county seat of Otter Tail County) is the Otters and of course in Pelican Rapids they went with… the Vikings! It was wonderful to see Amish buggies driving on the roads and tumbleweed tumbling down dusty city streets. It was a wonderful week of clear sunny days and I tried to make the most of it. Here’s what I got into:

When last I wrote I was headed clear across the state of Minnesota back to the western border. Along the way I stopped in the cute little town of Wadena to take some photos and have a wander. I ended up popping into the Little Round Still Distillery and talking with the nice folks there for a while. They gave me a lesson on Minnesota’s complicated liquor laws and it sounded like there is a lot to overcome when starting a brewery or distillery in the state. I ended up buying a 375ml bottle of their Gunflint whiskey which was quite good and the biggest bottle they could legally sell me. From Wadena, I headed on to the even smaller town of New York Mills to check out the Regional Cultural Center there. For a small town, this center is pretty well known and has a wonderful gallery and shop and hosts classes, workshops and events. There was a nice display of “wet felting” wall hangings by Kristen Anderson in the gallery when I was there which were beautiful and told an interesting story. There were also some other smaller pieces from previous exhibits upstairs. I was there for longer than I thought I would be but really enjoyed it. From there I headed on to Perham where I jumped on the Otter Trail Scenic Byway. This beautiful loop road took me through small towns and past some amazing prairie scenery as I made my way around Otter Tail County. I stopped in Pelican Rapids to take a photo of the world’s largest pelican and pulled into Phelps Mill right as the sun was setting to get some great photos of this historic mill now owned by the county. It was a great place to end my day and then I headed on to Fergus Falls for the night. I went downtown and found it pleasant but empty without a single bar or restaurant around. I really find it strange and sad when towns roll up their sidewalks after dark like that. I headed out of town and stopped for a quick beer at their brewery which was actually really tasty but way overpriced. I was sad that my only option for dinner at 8pm was Applebee’s which was on the low side of mediocre. For a town of 13,000 people I had expected a little more, but it was still a nice place to spend the night and it would redeem itself the following day.

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Snapshots: Stillwater - An Old River Town Reborn

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Snapshots: Stillwater - An Old River Town Reborn

Stillwater refers to itself as the “Birthplace of Minnesota” because the territorial convention which began the process of statehood was held there in 1848. The town itself predates the state and when it was officially incorporated in 1854, Stillwater was Minnesota’s biggest city. The town gets its name from the quiet stretch of the St. Croix River it sits on and its early life was dependent on lumber and river traffic. At its peak, the Stillwater Lumber Company was one of the biggest in the country. While its lumber days are long over, Stillwater has been busy repurposing the old warehouses and mills and reimaging itself as a premier tourist destination. The town’s main street is vibrant and packed with wonderful restaurants and busy bars and draws people from all over the world. Beautiful historic homes can be found in the nearby neighborhoods, harking back to Stillwater’s busy early days. Stillwater is everything I love about a historic town and it was one of the prettiest towns I visited in a long time. I love what they’ve done with the place. I hope you enjoy these photos from beautiful Stillwater, the Birthplace of Minnesota.

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This Week on the Road - October 28th-November 3rd

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This Week on the Road - October 28th-November 3rd

Hello Everyone! I can’t believe it’s November already. That means it’s almost 5 months since I left home and that it’s almost time to turn my headlights back in that general direction. I turned 46 last weekend in the Twin Cities and really enjoyed the weekend. I caught up with some friends and found some Halloween festivities as well and even went to the Vikings game at U.S. Bank Stadium. After a fun-filled but tiring weekend, I traveled up the St. Croix River through some really cool historic towns and have once again turned west for my final run across Minnesota. There’s been a lot of sun this week which has made the freezing and near-freezing temperatures pretty easy to bear, but with the sun coming up at 8am and going down before 6, it’s been a challenge to get everything I want to accomplish done during daylight hours. Daylight Savings Time is ending this week and while I’m looking forward to getting up with light in the sky, it will be dark by 5 and that’s not so easy. There was even a little bit of snow this week which was fun, but definitely a reminder of what is right ahead of us. I’m going to be pushing hard this week to see and do the things I want to get done so I can get out of here before the real snow flies. It’s been a busy week, so let’s get right into it.

After finishing this post last week in St. Cloud, I told you I was looking forward to an open-mic night in town. What I didn’t tell you because I didn’t know was that it was an open-mic comedy night which was quite something to see in a mid-sized Minnesota town, especially since most of the comedians were in some form of costume. On the whole, they were pretty terrible and bombed pretty hard if they could even remember their jokes at all. Some read directly off of their cue cards while others blanked entirely and wished they’d brought some. As far as hilarious stand-up goes - this was not that, but as far as observing life in St. Cloud, it was fascinating. Some people just spilled their guts and I wondered if there was supposed to be any jokes in it at all or if it was some form of humiliation therapy (although I sincerely applaud their courage to get up on stage at all). My favorite was probably Large Marge, a 40-something drag queen who had the best delivery and was actually pretty funny. The crowd was small, but generally supportive and I had a great time. The $4 craft beer pitchers didn’t hurt. Before the show I went across the street to Pioneer Place, an old theatre which was having a live radio performance. I wish I had known it was going on because it’s been a long time since I’ve attended such an event, but I did catch a little bit of it and it was also a lot of fun.

Thursday I headed out of St. Cloud and made a beeline for the Twin Cities. I had a great conversation with my old friend Peter as I drove. Peter lived near me when I lived in Japan and it was nice to catch up with him. When I got to Minneapolis, I ran around and did a bunch of errands and then spent the afternoon with my friend, Val. The last time I saw Val was at her place in Dallas on my drive home from South Texas at the beginning of the pandemic. It was good to see her and we spent the whole afternoon just hanging out and catching up.

The next day was my birthday and I started the day with a delicious breakfast at a little hole-in-the-wall called Junior’s. Then I headed up to the town of Anoka, which bills itself as the “Halloween Capital of the World”. There were banners on the light posts in town declaring the same and a giant pumpkin down by the river. The stores along the main street were all decorated, but mostly in a very subtle way and I was surprised how little decoration I saw around town seeing as it was 2 days before Halloween. While their big Halloween parade was on Saturday, I was there to see the schoolchildren’s parade. It was really wonderful with all of the different schools in town participating and hundreds of costumed kids marching down the street.

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Snapshots: Walker, Minnesota - On the Shores of Leech Lake

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Snapshots: Walker, Minnesota - On the Shores of Leech Lake

The area surrounding massive Leech Lake, which now includes the town of Walker, Minnesota, has been visited by Native Americans for centuries. When European fur traders arrived, the Ojibwe occupied the area. The railroad came through in the late 19th century and a small lumber town was established and named after Thomas B. Walker, a lumber baron and one of the wealthiest men in America. Logging was king in those early days, but the beauty of Leech Lake soon started to attract tourism as well. Today, tourism is the main draw to the area but Walker also serves as the Cass County seat. Leech Lake is beautiful and I can certainly understand the draw. The town itself is also very attractive with a cute downtown area and some wonderful parks along the lakefront. While Walker was on one of my lists of photogenic towns to visit in the state, when I found out one of my friends grew up there I definitely knew I had to pass through. While she lives in Moab, Utah at the moment, her parents were kind enough to take me in for the night and show me a good time. When I went to take these photos the next morning, the sky was so blue I found it hard to leave. I hope you enjoy these photos of beautiful Walker, Minnesota, a pleasant town worth checking out on the shores of fabulous Leech Lake.

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