According to their Chamber of Commerce, Bayfield is one of USA Today's Best Coastal Small Towns, Wisconsin's Smallest City, the Berry Capital of the State, and the Gateway to the Apostle Islands. That’s a lot for a place with a population of only around 500. the town was named in 1856 for Henry Bayfield, a British admiral and topographic engineer who explored the region in the 1820s.Lumber and fishing were the big industries in the early days and Bayfield also served as a port city. You can tell from some of the beautiful Victorian homes in town that at least a few people made their fortunes here. I found Bayfield to be a charming place with beautiful architecture and wonderful views out over the lake. It was my jumping-off point to both Madeline Island and Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. If you visit, be sure you try the local delicacy of whitefish livers which was one of the tastiest dishes I’ve had in a long time. I hope you enjoy these photos from this wonderful lakefront city.
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Madeline Island is the largest of the Apostle Islands which sit just off the coast of Wisconsin’s Lake Superior shoreline. It is the only one of the Apostles which isn’t a part of Apostle Island National Lakeshore and the only one open to development. The permanent population of the island hovers around 300 but grows considerably during the summer months. The island is named after Madeline Cadotte, an Ojibwe woman and the daughter of Chief White Crane who married a white fur trader and lived on the island in the 19th century.
The island is important to the Ojibwe as a spiritual center and was also the home of Chief Buffalo, the man responsible for negotiating the Treaty of 1854 which helped create a permanent Reservation on the Lake Superior coast.
Madeline Island was a major fur trading post for many years and later industries included commercial fishing, logging and tourism. Both Father Marquette and Bishop Baraga (the “Snowshoe Priest”) visited the island and helped establish missions there.
I had a great visit to Madeline Island. The ferry only took about 20 minutes to make the crossing and I brought my van with me and stayed at wonderful Big Bay State Park on the far side of the island. The ferry docks at La Pointe, the island’s only town which has several restaurants, bars and shops. It’s also where I found Tom’s Burned Down Cafe, one of the coolest bars I went to in the state. I enjoyed hiking in the state park and a long drive around the island on a very well maintained dirt road. I was sorry that the museum was closed when I was there, but I’m sure it had some interesting artifacts in it. Sunset over Lake Superior looking back at the mainland was magical. I hope you enjoy these photos from my time on beautiful Madeline Island.
Hello Everyone! It’s hard to believe that September has come and gone so quickly. We’re still a solid week or two from peak fall foliage here thanks to the lakes, but the weather has cooled and it definitely feels like fall. I’ve had a wonderful week on the road as I wound up my time here in Wisconsin with a visit to the Apostle Islands, spent a day with the Red Cliff Band of the Lake Superior Chippewa and a quiet night on Madeline Island before following Lake Superior to the Minnesota border. It’s been great to be back on the banks of this greatest of the Great Lakes. As much as I’ve loved my time in Wisconsin, I missed sitting on the shores of one or another Great Lake as I went. I did get two sad messages this week that I wanted to share with you. Way back when I had just begun this blog, I visited McDowell County in southern West Virginia and met a wonderful lady named Orbie Campbell who ran a tiny coffee shop in the town of War. Ms. Orbie passed away this week at the age of 76. She will be greatly missed in War for her kind spirit and welcoming demeanor. I also got word this week that Nancy, who ran the bar and kitchen at Teddy’s Juke Joint in Zachary, Louisiana (and was married to Teddy for over 40 years) passed away this month as well. Nancy was a kind soul who always had a cold beer and a good story waiting for me when I walked in the door. She will also be truly missed. May Ms. Orbie and Ms. Nancy both rest in peace.
After I finished this post last Wednesday, my new friend Russ and I did indeed do some kayaking. We loaded up his kayaks and headed out to Black River Lake and had the whole place to ourselves. It was a great time and a beautiful day to be there. We had one bald eagle and two swans for company and spent a couple of hours paddling around the lake under sunny skies with a pleasant breeze. Afterwards we went and shot some pool at the American Legion before calling it a night.
Thursday I took off from Bessemer and headed deeper into Michigan’s Upper Peninsula to spend the day in the Porcupine Mountains. I decided to skip this far corner of the U.P. when I was up there last month, knowing I would be much closer when I came north through Wisconsin and imagining it would be more beautiful in the fall. It really was a beautiful day and the park didn’t disappoint. I spent the morning in the Presque Island side of the park, wandering the coast and then up the Presque River to a couple of waterfalls. Then I headed around the park to the other side to visit the stunning Lake of the Clouds. Lake of the Clouds is one of Michigan’s most well-known natural features, and its reputation is well deserved. The lake is nestled in a hilly basin just up from the shores of Lake Superior, but it feels much more isolated when you are there. The best views were from the overlook, but I enjoyed a hike down to lake level as well. Fall colors aren’t quite at their peak, but I definitely think what color was there added to the scenery. It was a beautiful stop. From there I headed back to Wakefield where I stopped at the Randall Bakery for a delicious pasty (when in Rome, right?) before boogying back to Wisconsin. I pretty much made a beeline for Ashland as the day was wearing on and I wanted to get there before dark. Russ had gone kayaking in the Apostle Island sea caves that day, so he met me for a beer at the brewery before he headed back to Bessemer. I really enjoyed hanging out with him for a few days – we had a really good time.
Friday morning I headed to the Ashland Historical Museum. It was a typical small town collection of bric-a-brac, but I enjoyed poking around and the people there were nice. I took a stroll around downtown to check out Ashland’s beautiful murals and then ducked into the library right as it started to rain. I wanted to start to wind up my time in Wisconsin and look ahead towards Minnesota. When the rain started to let up, I made my way out to the beach for a while. It was a little chilly for a swim, but I enjoyed my dinner with a view out over Lake Superior. That night I enjoyed listening to the local high school team, the Ashland Oredockers, play Friday night football on the radio. I had a couple of beers in a few different places, but they were all pretty quiet so I called it a night.
Mercer is a small community of under 2,000 people situated along Highway 51 in Iron County, Wisconsin. The area has one of the highest concentrations of loons in the country and Mercer has designated itself The Loon Capital of the World. The town placed a massive 16 foot loon at its Chamber of Commerce named Clair d’ Loon. Every year in August, Mercer celebrates Loon Day which includes a loon calling contest. I thought it was a great little town with some fun shops and a cute Northwoods-style downtown area. It seemed like a lot of the businesses in town were for sale, so maybe this would be a great opportunity for someone looking to move to the area. I wasn’t in Mercer long, but it definitely charmed me and I wanted to share these pictures with you from The Loon Capital of the World.
Rhinelander is a charming little town in Oneida County in the Northwoods of Wisconsin. Located near the convergence of the Wisconsin and Pelican Rivers, Rhinelander got its start as a lumbering town and was first called Pelican Rapids. They changed their name to Rhinelander after Frederic Rhinelander, who was president of the Milwaukee, Lake Shore and Western Railroad at the time, in an effort to bring the railroad to their town.
In 1893 a local man named Eugene Shepard came to town with stories of a savage beast he caught which he called a “hodag”. A couple of years later, he told people he had caught another hodag, but this time it was alive. He brought his catch to the county fair where he charged people for a peak at the beast. When news of the hodag reached the Smithsonian Institution, they were determined to send a team to document the find. It was then that Shepard admitted it was all a hoax. Despite this admission, Rhinelander took the hodag and ran with it. Today you can find hodag statues at the Chamber of Commerce, the courthouse, the library and many other locations. You can drink Hodag Blood Ale at the brewery and cheer on the Rhinelander Hodags at their high school sporting events. It is definitely the town’s mascot.
I had a wonderful visit to Rhinelander. I loved the beautiful downtown area, the county courthouse and especially the photogenic feed store in town which was especially magical the evening I took these photos. I hope you enjoy these photos from my visit to Rhinelander, Home of the Hodags.
Hello Everyone! First and foremost this week, thank you all for your concern over my health last week. It was definitely just a cold and passed in a couple of days. It’s not fun to be sick on the road, but I was happy it was neither too hot to hang out in my van nor too cold to hang out outside of it making it far easier to get past. It’s been a beautiful week up here in the Northwoods of Wisconsin and a much quieter week than I’ve had all summer. As you all know better than anyone, I’ve been going pretty full-on since the beginning of June and while it’s been a wonderful summer, taking it easy for a few days has been really nice. It’s mostly been a week of fishing, reading and relaxing which I’ll get to in a minute, but first a couple of things that have been on my mind this week.
I saw a sign outside a restaurant this week which said “Money is not free!! This is NOT the American way! Please go to work. Be an American! Help your community, get a job!” I found this particularly offensive outside of a restaurant. You may not know that I spent a good chunk of my life working in restaurants, so I know a fair bit about the industry. Minimum wage in restaurants in the U.S. is $2.13 an hour with Wisconsin’s minimum wage slightly higher at $2.33. That means for a 40 hour week, a restaurant pays a server less than a hundred dollars. That money goes to pay that server’s taxes so in however many years I worked in restaurants, I never once received a paycheck that didn’t have $0.00 on it. You are dependent on a custom of tipping in this country and people’s individual upbringing, understanding and whim. That custom dictates people leave 15-20% of their bill to their server (which is taxed). From those tips, the server has to give a percentage to the bartender and the busboys. More recently, restaurants have decided to dip even further into their servers’ pockets and have them tip out the host, food runners and even the kitchen staff (and have cut those other employees’ salaries accordingly). Instead of a more equitable and reasonable sharing of their own profits (which would cause people to work harder and be more loyal) they’ve decided that servers should share around money left for them by their customers instead. The last time I worked at a restaurant, I was expected to “tip out” 5% of my sales or a quarter to a third of my tips, depending on how generous people were that day. And now restaurant owners have the gall to complain that servers don’t want to work under these conditions and for these paltry wages. They are calling them lazy and un-American. I find it highly offensive and you should too. I have seen “Help Wanted” and “Now Hiring” signs on pretty much every restaurant I’ve walked past this summer, but none are offering $10/hour (some may be, but if they were they would advertise it) and I guarantee that none are offering profit-sharing or benefits. A reckoning in the American restaurant industry is long overdue, and maybe it’s actually upon us. Unlike factory jobs, service jobs can’t be outsourced to other parts of the world (or believe me, they would be). People might take to ordering off of an iPad at their table, but I don’t see that working out so well even at McDonalds. If restaurants want people to work for their business, they may just have to pay people more than slave-wages and stop dipping so deep into their employee’s pockets to pay their other staff. Or they can continue running short-staffed and losing money hand-over-fist which is what they’re doing now, waiting for federal pandemic unemployment to run out so they can get their servants… I mean servers back. I feel for people who are struggling keeping their businesses going, I really do. But in an industry which pays someone two dollars an hour and expects their loyalty and dedication I have my issues. I saw this sign in the parking lot of a restaurant and pulled right out again taking my business elsewhere.
My second issue which came up this week had to do with masks and businesses (I know, you’re probably as tired as I am of hearing about it so I’ll make this short). Here in Northern Wisconsin, the only places I’ve seen mask “mandates” are at the post office and the library. The Indian Reservations have them as well, but those are governed under Tribal Law and there is no arguing them. I have, however, seen many businesses which, in typical Wisconsin fashion, kindly request that all customers wear a mask. They’re not forcing anyone to do anything, just asking that people respect their wishes to enter their business. I have been shocked to walk into many of these places (with my mask on, of course) and see nobody else in the whole place wearing one. If I ask you to take off your shoes when you come into my house, you don’t have to do so but it makes you a real a**hole if you don’t. The same goes for going unmasked in a store that requests you do so. I don’t remember ever seeing anything else in my life that turned so many decent people into stubborn jerks.
See what happens when I slow down? Too much time to think about these things for sure. After writing last week’s post, I did spend some more time in Rhinelander and really enjoyed it. They’ve definitely gone “all-in” on their love for the mythical beast the hodag. There’s Hodag Park and the Hodag Festival and their high school mascot is also the hodag. You can get Hodag Blood Ale at the brewery and there are whole stores dedicated to selling hodag memorabilia. It’s fun, but a little over-the-top, especially in a town with more to offer. But seeing the hodag around wherever I looked made me smile and I enjoyed my time in Rhinelander.
The Driftless Region of Wisconsin is the area below the furthest advance of the glaciers during the last Ice Age and covers most of the southwest portion of the state.. It is home to wonderful, ancient sandstone formations, beautiful parks and great little towns. This area is definitely hillier than much of the rest of the state and ends (at least as far as Wisconsin is concerned) at the Mississippi River on its western border. I had a great time exploring the Driftless, boating through the Wisconsin Dells, walking the State Park trails, driving the Great River Road and exploring the towns I found along the way. I encountered many different European-American traditions along the way including two of Wisconsin’s most famous: beer and cheese. I visited Wisconsin’s first Capital at Belmont, it’s biggest tourist attraction at House on the Rock and some of the state’s mining history at Mineral Point The Driftless is a sprawling region with a diverse culture and a fascinating history. I hope you enjoy these photos from Wisconsin’s Driftless Region, a unique place which I really enjoyed visiting.
House on the Rock simply defies explanation. It is, first and foremost, a house - and quite a unique and wonderful one at that. Built high on Deer Shelter Rock and overlooking the forest below, the house is the creation of Alex Jordan Jr. who began construction on it in 1945. Using the natural terrain of Deer Shelter Rock and building around many of the trees that were there, Jordan moved much of the material in the original structure by hand. It may not be the best built house structurally, but aesthetically it is quite stunning, incorporating natural materials and Japanese design features.
When House on the Rock was featured in a local Madison magazine, people began to show up to see it and asked Jordan for a tour. He started charging people 50 cents and soon realized that there was money to be made from his creation. He began to market it and add different marvels to his roadside attraction. Soon enough, thousands of people a year were coming to see it and Jordan hired a staff and began construction on other buildings to house his strange and eclectic collections. The Streets of Yesteryear is a walk down a recreated Victorian Era Street while the Heritage of the Sea features a massive three-story statue of a sea monster battling a whale-like creature. Jordan collected and built beautiful musical creations from around the world and then built the world’s largest carousel featuring 269 animals (none of them horses) and 20,000 lights. His collections of guns, dollhouses, musical instruments and model ships could have their own museums. Over a million people a year now make their way to this Wisconsin landmark, making it one of the state’s most visited sites.
It’s definitely a “roadside attraction”, but it’s so much more than that. It’s weird and whimsical and overwhelming to the senses. It takes hours to walk through and while I didn’t learn much while I was there, I sure enjoyed myself. It’s like a giant funhouse for adults and definitely worth the price of admission. I was overwhelmed. Much of House on the Rock and its outbuildings are dark and extremely hard to photograph, but some of the photos I took came out okay. They cannot possibly do justice to the experience, though, and I don’t think any photos really could. It’s definitely a place that has to be experienced for one’s self. Nevertheless, I hope you enjoy my attempt to share with you some of my favorite photos from my day at House on the Rock - a place you simply have to see to believe.
The Potsdam Sandstone that makes the beautiful formations we find in the Wisconsin Dells was formed 500 million years ago during the Cambrian Era when this area was the sandy shore of a vast inland sea. 15,000 years ago, during the last Ice Age, the glaciers came within 4 miles of The Dells but never quite got there, making this the edge of what is called The Driftless Region (the part of Wisconsin which evaded glaciation). When the Ice Age started to end, the meltwater formed a massive lake known as Glacial Lake Wisconsin. When the ice dam that held the lake back finally collapsed, it unleashed a massive flood which carved the gorges of the Wisconsin Dells in a matter of days or weeks. We get the word ‘Dells’ from the French word ‘dalles’ which means slabs of rock.
Human history in the area stretches back thousands of years, but the modern era of The Dells as a tourist draw can be traced to legendary photographer H.H. Bennett. Bennett took up photography after the Civil War but became frustrated that he could not capture moving objects on film without them blurring. He built his own camera which he referred to as a “snapper” and took a famous photo of his son jumping to Stand Rock. This photo circulated around the country and then the world and people had to come and see these Dells for themselves. The Dells became quite a mess with all of the attempts to capitalize on this beautiful natural area’s popularity (think Niagara Falls), but thankfully it has been designated a State Natural Area which is overseen by the State of Wisconsin. The weird tourist traps which have persisted are thankfully out of view of The Dells themselves.
I came to The Dells a few times when I was a kid and always remembered it as a beautiful place. I was happy to find I still thought that after many years away and having visited a lot of beautiful areas in the interim. I took the Upper Dells boat tour and a DUCK tour of the Lower Dells while I was there and enjoyed both of them (although choosing between the two would be easy - the Upper Dells all the way). I was also lucky to have absolutely beautiful weather while I was there. I hope you enjoy these photos from my visit to the beautiful Wisconsin Dells.
Hello Everyone. Greetings from La Crosse, the biggest town on Wisconsin’s stretch of The Great River Road. It’s definitely cooled down a bit this week and the first hints of fall are starting to show up on the edges of the leaves and in the products in the stores. Pumpkins are popping up on farm stands and apple orchards are starting to open. I will hold on to summer as long as I can, but I’m really looking forward to the fall as well. It’s been an excellent and busy week out here on the road, taking me from the middle of the state out across the Driftless Region and finally up along the Mississippi River to La Crosse. I’ve explored some of Wisconsin’s early history and even learned one story about the state’s badger connection. It’s been such a busy week so I better get right to it.
When I left you last week I was on my way out to Devil’s Lake State Park, which was a beautiful lake and a great little park. I enjoyed going for a swim and found a place to recycle my recyclables. I really love State Parks, and Wisconsin’s have been pretty good so far. I spent the night in Baraboo and got up early Thursday morning and went for a delicious breakfast at the Broadway Diner. Then I enjoyed a little walk around Baraboo’s downtown area. As I mentioned last week, Baraboo was the birthplace of the Ringling Brothers Circus and its home for many years. I was happy to see the town has embraced that part of its history without taking it to the weird extreme some towns would have. The Ringlings’ father was a harness maker in Baraboo and he and his family lived above the harness shop downtown. He and his wife had ten children – eight of whom would live to adulthood. Five of those children would found the Ringling Brothers Circus in 1894. They would eventually bring their other two brothers on board and go on to buy Barnum and Bailey’s Circus in 1907 and build one of the largest entertainment dynasties America would ever know. Baraboo’s opulent downtown theater is named for Al Ringling and there are subtle and not-so-subtle nods to the famous family all over town. The centerpiece of Baraboo’s Ringling connecting is Circus World, a museum located on what was once the circus’ winter quarters. I love the thought of elephants being walked through downtown Baraboo streets to get some exercise (and saw the pictures to prove it). This is a good circus museum which I had been to before and houses the largest collection of old circus wagons in the world. They do have live performances throughout the summer, but I arrived just days too late to catch one. It was still fun and when I finished there I headed on south to Dodge State Park. Named for the first governor of Wisconsin, this is a pleasant state park surrounding two little lakes. I went on a nice 4 mile hike through the park and was really taken aback by the incredible fields of goldenrod that were there. It was nice to get out on the trail for a while and I enjoyed my hike and then headed down to Dodgeville for the night.
Friday morning I got up and went back north to check out the infamous House on the Rock. I had heard of the House on the Rock for years, and although I never really understood what was so appealing about it from the descriptions I read (especially at the steep admission cost of $30), I decided to give it a look while I was there. I realized within minutes of my arrival that this place defied description and was a truly magical place. The actual house on the rock was built by Alex Jordan Jr. beginning in 1945. He designed and built the house himself using local materials atop a huge rock formation called Deer Shelter Rock. Working around the natural rock formations and trees, Jordan built room after room in incredibly eclectic fashion with Japanese influences and windows looking down at the forest below. After a write-up in a local Madison paper, people started dropping by to try and get a look at this House on the Rock, and after enough people came, Jordan decided to start charging them admission. He brought in $15 that day, $5,000 that year and $34,000 the next. From there, he was off and running, collecting things, building things and constructing new buildings to house it all. It’s resulted in a world class collection of kitsch, but one displayed in such a brilliant and whimsical way that it’s an immersive experience I can only liken to Alice wandering into Wonderland. The lights and sounds and music are all overwhelmingly fun and so over-the-top that I can’t imagine anyone not enjoying themselves there. The centerpiece is definitely the “World’s Largest Carousel”, featuring 269 characters collected from around the world and refurbished in their workshops. None of the final selection is a horse. I could have sat and watched it for hours. I had a smile from ear to ear for the whole six hours I was at House on the Rock and would definitely go back in a heartbeat. It’s by far the greatest roadside attraction I’ve ever seen. I left feeling overwhelmed and giddy and definitely knew there was no way to follow it up that day. I stopped in Mount Horeb for a quick beer and then boogied on back to Madison. I had a delicious Friday Night Fish Fry at Reverend Jim’s Roadhouse out by the casino and then called it an early night.
I was up early on Saturday and went for a morning workout before heading into downtown Madison. I had tickets to the Penn State-Wisconsin game and wanted to give myself plenty of time to park and get to the stadium. I parked near the Capitol and then wandered down State Street, stopping for a beer or two along the way.
I haven’t met many people in Wisconsin who don’t get a dreamy look in their eyes at the mere mention of Door County. It’s clearly a place near and dear to generations of people who have passed time there over the years and it definitely lived up to the hype. Door County is the peninsula which juts out between Green Bay and Lake Michigan, often thought of as Wisconsin’s Thumb. The well-manicured towns that make up Door County are often likened to New England seaside towns and while I can see the similarities, to me they were unique and wonderful and pure Wisconsin. Each town on the peninsula was beautiful and special in its own way, and I think travelers’ own tastes would be the only way to choose a favorite. The beautiful flowers, clean beaches, busy farm stands, pristine state parks and great little restaurants all helped make my stay in Door County a good one. I definitely understand what all the fuss is about and I know when I hear someone mention it in the future, I may get a dreamy look in my eyes myself. I hope you enjoy these photos from my stay in quaint and charming Door County, Wisconsin.
Hello Everyone! September is upon us but you wouldn’t know it here in Wisconsin. It’s been hot and humid in the Badger State this week, but it does look like it’s supposed to be cooling down in the near future. The days are certainly getting shorter which wasn’t helped by the time change between Michigan and Wisconsin. I have had such a great summer, but I’m a huge fan of fall and am really looking forward to cooler temperatures and, of course, the changing leaves. To begin this week, I’m sending prayers and positivity to all of my friends around the country who are facing down storms and wildfires this week. As some of you know, I spent two years of my life helping re-open the public school system in New Orleans in the wake of Hurricane Katrina and it was hard to watch Hurricane Ida making its way towards the Big Easy on the 16th Anniversary of that storm. Of course, as I’ve pointed out to a lot of people this week, Katrina only did minor damage to the city, it was when the levies broke that the real problems began. Thankfully it looks like New Orleans has survived this storm relatively intact and I’m grateful for that. Hoping all of my friends and readers in the region are safe and sound. I also have a lot of friends in the Greater Lake Tahoe region on the California/Nevada border and many of them have evacuated as the fires get closer and closer. You’re all in my thoughts as well. With all of that going on, Wisconsin is a pretty good place to be right now, and I’m grateful for that. Also this week, for those of you who followed my D.C. Chronicles through the pandemic, my mother is watching Mason as he transitions between schools and is enjoying playing big trucks with him in his new house. As for me, I’ve been out exploring Door County and Central Wisconsin this week, so let me tell you what I’ve been up to.
When I left you last week I was in Sturgeon Bay and headed off into Door County which is the peninsula that looks like Wisconsin’s thumb jutting out into Lake Michigan. That day I headed up to a beach just south of Egg Harbor for a swim in Green Bay and then stopped off for a quick beer or two at One Barrel Brewery in town. Afterwards I headed on to Fish Creek which is where I spent that night. After watching the sun go down, I stopped into the Bayside Tavern for a fish sandwich and a beer and ended up meeting a nice lady who was really interested in lighthouses. We ended up talking about lighthouses and travel for a couple of hours which I really enjoyed and it was nice to have some company.
Thursday morning I was up bright and early as I had a lot I wanted to accomplish with the day. After a nice breakfast at FIKA bakery, I gassed up, bought my Wisconsin fishing license and my annual State Park Pass and headed off into Peninsula State Park. Peninsula was Wisconsin’s first state park and one of its best known and most visited. I stopped off at the Eagle Bluff Lighthouse and the Eagle Tower, which was just that – a tower built to observe the local eagles from above the tree line but also provided great views out over the water and the park. I was very impressed that they had built probably a quarter-mile ramp up to the tower to make it ADA accessible and there was someone there in a wheelchair and another person with physical challenges who were both using the ramp while I was there. From there I went to the beach…